John Edwards discusses some of the reasons why aluminum blocks require resurfacing and how it’s done on the Sunnen HBS-1300 @ Costa Mesa R&D Automotive Machine 949.631.6376 www.engine-machining.com
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25 Responses to “Nissan SR20-DET Block Resurfacing”
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Im thinking its you that set your machine off set.
i think this is kid ricers job to sand head with hands
@dirtrider383 On an SR20. The head alone being resurfaced is enough to where you need to adjust timing or blow the HeadGasket you just put on immediately after startup. Head and block both. No doubt lol
this might be a stupid ? but wud that raise the compression if i did wud it be enuf to notice
Wow you guys are great i think i may have my sr20 done here..
This is from an S14 yes.
i want that done to my car it would go so much better
Quick question… I have a motor just like that … After watching this you completely changed my mind to just reassembling it … Im wanting to have it machined and possibly have the cylinders honed… What would something like that run typically? I live in the Pensacola Florida area… and im not sure where to start… Thought you may have a ballpark figure i could toss around .
Thanks for the head up on the warping though! I woulda been pissed putting it back together and it leaking
Nice work, keep making these video’s. Great information.
@dubbelzijdigplakband – Not sure what this engine was out of. Howdy from SoCal.
@benenarmor – It’s the average measurement from peak-to-valley.
@AxSxKxONE – Haven’t had any luck with them so far.
@bcire10 Sunnen HBS1300
@BARCDAEH – Occasionally.
Hey John do you take interns at your facility?
what type of machine are you using?
what about chemical removers?
is this from al silvia s-14???
Nice vid btw
greetz from nl
What is the surface finish/Ra?
Is that how smooth the surface is?
Why my DET blow the head gasket? This is the answer…
@YoungJim409
its about .070 on an american v8 to increase it one step.
thats a nice finish there.
while true, in the case of a SR20 you if you are rebuilding the engine you might as well put in a thicker metal head gasket. Something like a Tomei 1.2mm works great.
The factory Nissan ones are about .9mm so you actually lose compression. Which isn’t so bad because you can now run more boost and timing.
oh whew!
Yes, but he said he took about four and a half thousandths (of an inch) off. For scale, a credit card receipt on that really smooth paper is about two thousandths, so he took off the equivalent to that receipt folded in half.
You’d have to take off quite a bit more than that before you need to worry about compression changing or the piston getting too close to the valves.